I Finished It Friday: Ballard Designs Inspired Beadboard Drying Rack Tutorial

I am in the process of redesigning my laundry room.

I have been looking at tons of pictures for inspiration and

I noticed a drying rack by Ballard Designs that kept popping up.

I just knew it would be a perfect addition to my new laundry room.

Although I loved (really loved) the large size,

I measured the space in my laundry room and it just wouldn't fit.

 The medium size seemed to be the better match.

But at $139 (on sale) plus tax and shipping...

that didn't match the amount of cash I had in my wallet. :)

I had seen some DIY knock-offs of this idea 

but none were exactly like the original.

So, this lady decided to build her own.

No plans to follow.

Just a picture combined with some wood, glue, a nail gun,

and some lots of determination.

I think this lady did pretty good...

 I would like to give you some plans to follow,

that way you can build your own, too!

First, you need to gather your supplies:

1. One roll of bead board wall paper
2. One 2x4 pre-cut birch wood (1/2 inch thick)--I had the nice guys at Lowes cut 7 inches off the length, so my final board size was 24x41.
3. Two 1/2x2' poplar boards-for inner frame with dowels (I bought pre-primed)
4. Two 1/2x4' poplar boards-for outer frame (I bought pre-primed)
5. Two 2x2 birchwood boards (1/4 inch thick)
6. Four 3/8' dowel rods (48' long)
7. Narrow pin hinge (set of two)
8. D-ring hangers for mounting on the wall
9. Hinged bracket for the side
10. Two Round Magnets
11. Steel Wood Joiners
12. Wood Glue
13. Liquid Nails
14. Spray Paint

There are also a few tools you will need to complete this project:

a drill, a 3/8 drill bit, hammer, framing nails, screwdriver, saw  

(optional- nail gun)

First Step:

Cover the front side of your pre-cut birch wood with bead board wall paper. (Follow the directions inside the package).

Second Step: 

While that is drying, measure and cut your boards for the outer frame. I cut mine at 40¾x26.

Third Step:

Once wall paper is dry, attach your outer frame to the birch wood. I placed wood glue on first then I used my nail gun. You can also use finishing nails.

Fourth Step:

Measure and cut your inner frame. I cut mine at 37x24¾.Then cut your dowels, I cut my at 22½. Next drill holes for your dowel using a 3/8 bit. I spaced mine 5 inches apart except for the last one-which is 4 inches from the bottom. (To me, the last one didn't look like it was spaced as evenly as the others. Like I mentioned before...I was really trying to make an exact replica!) Tip: I used my Kreg Jig to help hold the board secure while I drilled.

Fifth Step:

Insert your dowels into the holes and hammer into place with a mallet. I also placed a tiny drop off wood glue inside each hole just for extra strength. Then finish the frame by attaching the remaining top and bottom pieces with finishing nails. The nails will need to be 3 inches long. Tip: I pre-drilled holes through the top/bottom board to guide the nails. Less you risk splitting the boards.

Six Step: 

Attach your two 1/4 inch birchwood boards to the inside of the frame, both at top and bottom. To secure it, I used some liquid nails and my nail gun. If you have any boo boos, this will hide them nicely.

Here you see the nail gun gone bad...

And here you don't (it's our little secret!)

Seventh Step:

Time to spray paint. I used RustOleum White with a satin finish.

Eighth Step:

Attach your pin hinge with your screwdriver. Then attach your hinged bracket for the side.

 

Ninth Step:

To attach your magnets to the frame I first measured and placed these steel wood joiners...

They have very sharp spikes attached to them. I simply hammered them into the underside of the frame. Then I stuck the magnet to the metal. When the magnets were attached, I placed super glue on their backs. I then just closed the frame and pressed down. That's how I achieved perfectly lined up metal to magnet. ( I did notice that my magnets were not as even as I would have liked but I couldn't move them. It isn't called Super glue for nothin'. I wish I wasn't such a perfectionist!)

Tenth Step:

Attach your d-rings on the upper back. Then attach your hangers to the wall. I used my measuring stick trick to hang it perfect the first time.

Now it's ready to hang on your laundry room wall.

And yes, I even made my own Laundry Sign. 

You could buy one from Ballard Designs for $45 (plus tax and shipping)

 or you could make one. 

I grabbed my letters at Micheal's. I already had the board, liquid nails and spray paint. 

I am accessorizing my laundry room with black and 

I love how the sign adds some nice contrast.

Now I have a nice place to having my delicate clothing...
you know what I mean ladies, your lingerie.

The total cost for my drying rack was around $55.
And it took me a few afternoons to build. 

Now, I just need to finish the rest of my laundry room,
then I can share pictures of the whole space! :)

Linking To:

Thrifty Decor Chick

Between Naps On The Porch

Skip To My Lou
Serendipity and Spice
Today's Creative Blog 
Savvy Southern Style
The Shabby Creek Cottage  
The Shabby Nest 
Under the Table and Dreaming

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